Showing posts with label fashion week. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion week. Show all posts

Bettina Ballard's Busy Day

New York Fashion Week has ended and now the editors are on their way to London if they are not there already.  After that, they will cover fashion week in Milan and finally Paris. In March 1951, Life magazine featured an article about  Vogue fashion editor Bettina Ballard entitled Bettina's Busy Day that followed the editor around Paris during fashion week in February 1951.  What amazed me is that except for a few details and midnight photo sessions, the life of an editor hasn't changed much in 60 years. 

In the above photo, Bettina Ballard arrived at Balenciaga at 9:15am to select clothes while wearing a Balenciaga suit.  In the car are the coats and hats of the other fashion houses she will visit that day.

At 10:15am, she arrived for the Schiaparelli opening and wore a Schiaparelli coat over her Balenciaga suit.  She also greeted Bergdorf Goodman buyer Jessica Daube before finding her seat.

At Schiaparelli, Vogue editor Bettina Ballard sat next to Carmel Snow, the editor in chief of rival magazine Harper's Bazaar.  That definitely doesn't happen today!

After another change of clothes, she attended the Dior show wearing a black Dior suit.  She sat next to Michel de Brunhoff the editor of French Vogue.  There is also an ashtry next to the runway since everyone in those days smoked especially in Paris.

Bettina Ballard dined at the home of designer Jacques Fath with among others that included Duchesse de Brissac and Countess de Rosenberg.

Bettina in a belted hotel robe holds a morning conference in her room at 8:00am with photographer John Rawlings and Vogue assistants Babs Simpson and Mary Haas.

Designer clothing can be borrowed and sent around the world for photo shoots today but in 1951, night studio sessions were the only way clothes could be obtained from the fashion houses who also needed them to show buyers. At midnight, Bettina and photographer John Rawlings direct models at a shoot.

A photo taken in Paris.

In the studio at night, Bettina poses models in pale pleated shantung Fath dresses.  The photo was rushed into the March 1 issue of Vogue.

At 2:00am while most of today's editors might be at a party, Bettina checks photos taken during the day and eats a late dinner.  She will decide what to send to Vogue editor Jessica Daves in New York and then will finally go to bed. In 1960, Bettina Ballard published a memoire In My Fashion whichfurther chronicles her life in fashion.  It's one of the only vintage books I don't own but I can't wait to read it!  Bon Weekend!

My View at Derek Lam

Only fashion could get me up and out of the house at 8:00am on a chilly Sunday morning.  Estee Lauder was kind enough to invite me backstage at the Derek Lam show and I'm excited to share my behind the scenes experience with you.  It's amazing how much work goes into a ten minute runway show. Tom Pecheux, Estee Lauder Creative Makeup Director, was shown sketches and fabric swatches prior to the show and created a few different options for the makeup.  He and Derek then worked together to finalize the look which can be seen tacked to the mirror above. Like the clothing he said, it is "sophisticated, feminine, and minimal without being boring."
It was very exciting to watch Tom Pecheux work his magic while describing the process. Even the way he applied moisturizer was mesmerizing.

Of course, all the products were Estee Lauder including the new Idealist Skintone Illuminator that will launch this summer.

A look at the long beauty table.

Tom Pecheux told a story about model Stella Tennant who once arrived from another show in tears.  She was crying because of how ugly the previous makeup artist had made her look.  It was at that moment that Tom said he realized that he didn't ever want to make the models not feel beautiful.  I thought this was really sweet.

Orlando Pita was also backstage working his hair magic.

There is a lot of multi-tasking that goes on before a show and it's quite chaotic.  I spent most a lot of time trying to not be in the way or get trampled by the photographers.  Although, as I joked on Twitter, perhaps I should have let them trample me because they are usually the only straight me at fashion week!

The nails were painted by the team of Jin Soon Choi for Estee Lauder in a winter white shade called Porcelain that will debut this fall.

Another look at the beauty team at work. Beyond the curtain lies the dressing area with the clothes.

Tom Pecheux said that the makeup look for a fashion is show is about creating a statement and having fun. 

The Estee Lauder eyeshadow used was a combination of silver mettalic and black shimmer that will also debut this fall.

Tom said this is more of a night look and he kept the face matte and the lips beige.  After all the bright lips for spring, it seems like they will be paler for fall.

“This look is very versatile; it almost changes with your movement. The silver metal on the eye reminds me of modern architecture, hard and strong and plays delicately against Derek’s minimal but sophisticated collection. These clothes, you want to keep forever,” described Pecheux, “This look is very confident and lovely.  It evokes the fantasy of the Derek Lam woman.”  Tom poses with Estee Lauder models Constance Jablonski, Liu Wen and Joan Smalls.

A slightly blurry shot of the model board.  While I was backstage, I ran into Emily Weiss writes the fabulous beauty blog Into the Gloss who was also covering the action.

One of the most exciting thing about being backstange is seeing the clothing before everyone else sees it on the runway. When I asked Derek what inspired him for fall he said it was the George Balanchine quote, "There are no new steps, only new combinations." He also said that he didn't want a crazy pop of color for fall but instead "something that would translate into a woman's wardrobe. Colors that would mix in with greys, black and camel."

Each outfit is steamed, de-linted and carefully hung along side a card that lists the model, number in the line up and accessories. 

As I mentioned in another post, red is a hot color for fall 2011.  This tomato red and a blue shade not shown were absolutely gorgeous in person.  I mentioned how much I loved them and Derek told me that they were inspired by the classic colors of uniforms.

Derek Lam is also an Aries and rams appear on many of his hangbags.  I think I need to buy myself one!

Grey is another big color for fall.

All of the shoes had labels with the model's nams in them to prevent confusion.  I was really impressed by the organization and sense of calm before the show in this area.

My all time favorite coat from fashion week!

Derek Lam was interview by many before the show including Moda Operandi here.  I was beyond honored that he took a minute to speak with me. 

Derek being interviewed by Louise Roe for Elle.com.

I was invited to stay for the runway show and this is a look at the calm before the storm!

I spotted interior designer Nate Berkus and his mother in the front row.

Others in the front row included Joanna Coles, editor in chief of Marie Claire, Nina Garcia, Aerin Lauder of Estee Lauder, and Linda Fargo of Bergdorf Goodman.

I ran into J.Crew creative director Jenna Lyons looking very chic.  I also happned to sit next to Hillary Kerr and Katherine Power of Who What Wear but I wasn't quite sure it was them until after the show.  I wish I had known earlier so I could have talked to them about their new book What to Wear Where.

Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour and her daughter Bee Shaffer sitting front row near Bill Cunningham.

Big thanks to Estee Lauder and Derek Lam for this wonderful treat during fashion week.  For complete coverage of all the looks, visit Style.com or Vogue.com.

Beauty photos courtesy of Estee Lauder and all others by Heather Clawson for Habitually Chic

Fall Fashions

Since I know that not all of my readers are Americans on holiday for the long Labor Day weekend, I thought I would post a little fall fashion inspiration from Vogue.  The fashion world in New York is not on holiday this weekend either.  They are putting the "labor" in Labor Day but toiling away in their ateliers and putting the final touches on their collections for fashion week.  I want to thank everyone involved from the designers on down to the pattern makers and seamstresses, and even the interns for all their hard work.  I also want to thank everyone who invited me to their upcoming shows.  I can't wait to see what magic you have dreamed up for Spring/Summer 2011.  Until then, I will be drooling over the fall fashions and planning my wardrobe.  Enjoy!





Photos by Raymond Meier for August 2010 Vogue

The Frontline with Linda Fargo

Linda Fargo is the Senior Vice President, Women's Fashion Director and Store Presentation for Bergdorf Goodman and is one of the chicest women in New York! Since the women in my family went white haired very early, I always joke that if I go white someday then I want to look like Linda! I should be so lucky! I stumbled upon her dispatches from The Frontline of fashion week and was in heaven! I've posted her pages from Paris here but you can also read about Milan and New York online. I love that they look like a Moleskine diary! They are manifique!